Mount Ijen is a stratovolcano located in East Java, Indonesia. Daily, hordes of tourists ascend its steep slopes to witness the captivating blue flames emanating from sulfur deposits. It is one of the few remaining active sulfur mines in the world. While its surreal landscapes have fascinated scientists and adventurers for over two centuries, in recent years, the miners themselves have emerged as a contentious tourist draw.

In the heart of this volcanic wonder, I observed a world where beauty and hardship intersect. Using my camera, I documented the daily struggles of the sulfur miners, their bodies bent under heavy burdens and their spirits tested by the harsh elements. Manually loading sulfur into their baskets, the miners laboriously carry their hefty loads on foot. Among clouds of toxic sulfur dioxide that cause immediate discomfort to their throats and eyes, the miners work tirelessly without adequate protection, with only a few possessing gas masks.

As I followed Dharma and his fellow miners on their ascent, I noted the scale of their labor. Carrying baskets and driven by determination, they navigated steep paths and dense jungles, their bodies covered in sweat and grime.

Formerly a seasoned miner, Dharma transitioned from working in the crater to becoming a tourism operator, demonstrating the enduring human spirit. He spent years learning English to leave behind the life of a miner and focus on tourism. He recounted to me his three-year stint, making the arduous journey two or three times a day. The mark on his shoulder shows the burdensome baskets used to transport sulfur. Dharma explained that most miners prefer working at night to avoid the daytime heat.

Despite their resilience, the miners remain at the mercy of forces beyond their control. Operated by a distant Chinese company, the mine lacks permanent staff and offers low wages and little in the way of protection or support. Miners decide their daily ascents up the 2769-meter volcano. On average, a miner can carry between 60 to 90 kilograms of sulfur at once, with some of the strongest shouldering over 100 kilograms.

The miners utilize primitive baskets connected by a yoke. The journey entails carrying the load up to 300 meters along a steep mountain path to the crater's edge. Then, they trek an additional three kilometers through the jungle to the collection point at Pos Paltuding. Each miner earns approximately $5 per trip, typically managing just two trips a day.

And yet, it remains one of the highest-paid occupations in the region, a stark reminder of the harsh realities faced by those who call Mount Ijen home.